Gourmet Magazine, April 2003
by Caroline Bates
If I were doing business with the technology firms in
Carmel Valley, I'd be grateful for Arterra. It feels too drafty and
impersonal for an intimate meal, but "art of the earth" fairly describes the
first-rate provender from the Chinos and many other local producers--after
all, the restaurant bears the imprimatur of Bradley Ogden, a champion of
small organic growers years before others jumped on the farm wagon.
Carl Schroeder is a skillful chef, pairing a butter
lettuce salad of pears and honeyed walnuts with a gorgonzola souffle; his
seared diver scallops with sauteed sweet red peppers and bok choy in a sea
of red curry are a kick. For rack of lamb, he makes his own fresh mint
jelly, for goodness' sake.